Grivel Stories

Divine Providence One Push

Published on 20/09/2024 “Often times being the first to do something, the first to imagine it, is what really counts, because let’s say once a performance like this exists, then the next climbers h...

“Intégrale 2.0”: a new take on a legend by Damien Tomasi

Published on 06/09/2024 It must be 1 or 2 a.m. and, despite the cold and our only sleeping bag for two, I manage to fall asleep. But I'm regularly woken up by the sound of falling rocks in the Eccl...

Goulotte Gabarrou-Albinoni 1974-2024 - 50th anniversary

The 50th anniversary of a great classic goulotte in the Mont Blanc range, in the words of one of the protagonists, Patrick Gabarrou.  English, Italian and French subtitles available.

CERRO NORA OESTE – ADVENTURE AND DISCOVERY IN PATAGONIA BY LUCA SCHIERA

Published on 27/02/2024 I have always felt like a climber but the world of climbing and mountaineering, with more and more rules and conformism, is a bit tight for me. I want to clarify: I love cli...

Mushin - Being Yasushi Yamanoi

Published on 14/12/2023 “Mushin" is a zen mental state achieved when a person's mind is free from thoughts of anger, fear, or ego during combat or everyday life, so the person is totally free to ac...

EVEREST - Then & Now

Published on 24/10/2023 The timeless appeal of the world's highest mountain in the words of Rinaldo Carrel (first Italian to summit, in 1973) and François Cazzanelli (who climbed it in 2018), with ...

THE NOIRE - Climbing in the Shadow of Mont Blanc

Published on 10/8/2023Light and dark, adventure and exploration, friendship and cold … On February 12th and 13th 2023 François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano “Teto” Stradelli opened “Couloir I...

From D15 to 9a by Angelika Rainer

My entry into the world of ice and dry-tooling happened by pure chance. When I was 18 years old, in 2005, after having already been sport climbing for 6 years, I participated for fun and without an...

El Puma 9a - Marcello Bombardi

Published on 31/05/2023 "In the last few years I have freed a couple of these routes, a little bit more isolated, hidden, bolted many years ago. I get so excited about this thing of being able to g...

The Crystal Ship - First ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850)

Published on 28/02/2023 3 friends and un unclimbed summit at 6850m in Karakoram. A long wait due to bad weather and then an unexpected good weather window that allowed them to fulfill their dream.T...

Saxarate Reality - Marco Sappa

Published on 2022/09/29“From a crack climbing point of view it really has nothing to envy to many other great classics I've climbed … Having it here at a stone's throw from home in Courmayeur with ...

BEYOND THE ROCK - Climbing in Corsica video series

What is climbing? Let's try to discover it in this series, with a group of strong climbers around Corsica.

The story of Toni Gobbi: from citizen to mountain guide - by Oliviero Gobbi

Published on 2022/08/12 Toni Gobbi was a mountaineer, a mountain guide, a ski instructor and an entrepreneur. Born in Pavia in 1914 and raised in Vicenza, he moved to Courmayeur in the early 1940s....

THE SLOVAK - Reflections on Light & Fast Alpinism

Published on 2022/07/27 Steve House and Alan Rousseau: reflections on light & fast Alpinism, from their experiences on the Slovak Direct (Denali) one of the most legendary routes in the Alaska ...

The art of surviving by Marek Raganowicz

Published on 2022/07/19 Between April 17th and May 21st, Marek Raganowicz opened MikroKozmik Variations (VII, A4 +, M5) in the Polar Sun Arm,Baffin Island (Sam Ford Fiord), Canada. The whole expedi...

MATTERHORN Big Wall

Published on 2022/06/13 3 friends and mountaineers, 2 routes linked together according to a visionary project, 1 iconic mountain in the heart of the Alps.MATTERHORN BIG WALL is out on our YouTube C...

WIELICKI - The Lord of winter

Published on 2022/05/25 “I believe that mine was an entire generation who really wanted to leave their name written in the history of mountaineering. It was also a historical paradox that it was pr...

Superleggeri Grivel: the crampons that pushed mountaineering above 8000m by Gian Luca Gasca

Published on 2022.05.06 "They climbed the slope with crampons, without cutting steps - as desirable as they might seem - because they wanted to save energy". Thus the Alpine Journal on the exploits...

La Norte, triumph and tragedy on Cerro Torre by Tomas Roy Aguilò

Published on 2022/04/07First attempts on the North Face of Cerro Torre 17 years climbing in El Chalten… I can say that my path was progressive and full of enriching experiences. In 2013 we climbed...